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St. John
and the U.S. Virgin Islands |
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The U.S. Virgin
Islands
Columbus
discovered the U.S. Virgin Islands on his second
voyage to the New World in 1493. Over the course
of time, the islands were ruled successively by
the English, Dutch, French, Spanish, Knights of
Malta, and the Danes.
There
were no permanent settlements on St. John until about
1720. Seeking to grow sugar cane for the rum trade,
various European countries laid claim to St. John. Great
Britain and Denmark sparred back and forth for control
over the tiny island for centuries, and the British had
claimed St. John when the Denmark took physical
possession in 1684.
In
1733, slaves on St. John revolted against plantation
owners and slavery. They were spurred on by the recent
arrival of an elite group of African tribal rulers who
preferred death to a life in slavery. In 1825, the
Danish government built a new courthouse and
prison in Cruz Bay. The structure was intended to
improve the treatment of slaves on St. John, by making
justice a government issue rather than leaving it to
individual planters. This building is known as the
Battery and is the only government building from the
Danish Colonial period still standing. In 1848, Governor
General Peter von Scholten abolished slavery in the
Danish West Indies.
With
the end of slavery came the decline of plantations on
St. John and a dramatic drop in population. Between 1850
and 1870 St. John lost about half its population, and by
1913, the population of St. John had dwindled to about
930 persons, all eking out a living through fishing and
subsistence farming.
With
their former importance an all but forgotten memory, the
U.S. government was able to purchase the sleepy islands
of St. Croix, St. Thomas and St. John from the Kingdom
of Denmark during World War I for a mere $25,000,000 in
gold bullion.
By
the 1930s, word of the islands' beauty had reached the
U.S. mainland and tourism took shape. Further good
fortune struck in 1956 when Laurence Rockefeller donated
to the Federal Government 5000 acres of land. That
acreage today makes up most of what is better known as
the Virgin Islands National Park, the nation's
twenty-ninth. Through further donations and purchases,
the National Park Service today protects some 7200 acres
of
land and 5600 acres of
underwater lands on and around St. John. More than 20 hiking trails cross through
the park a mere stone's throw from Horizons
Cottage! |
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The unique culture and
history of the USVI is a result of its West African,
Danish, Spanish, Irish, Polish, and German heritage.
With the many new settlers and slaves brought to the
islands since the late 1400s came the rhythms and lyrics
of the calypso, cariso, soca, reggae, and steel pan
melodies that can be heard throughout the USVI. Virgin
Islanders are also very artistic in other media -
painting, drawing, sculpture, and photography.
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Camille Pissarro, the famous Impressionist,
made the USVI his lifelong home. Local culture expresses
itself in numerous festivals around the islands and also
in its unique cuisine, which has its origins in Africa,
Puerto Rico, other West Indian islands, and Europe. Many
island recipes originate from times when imports were
scarce, but today's typical island fare includes locally
grown and raised spices, tropical fruits, root
vegetables, and meats. |

One favorite local beverage is
maubi
(you'll also see it also spelled
mauby or maubey),
a fermented drink made of ginger
root, yeast, herbs, and the bark of the maubi tree,
which is brewed both in home stills and by some local
companies. Other non-alcoholic specialties include
ginger beer, bush tea, soursop juice,
and the creamy
sea-moss cooler.
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Restaurants in the islands feature
international cuisine such as French, Japanese, Italian,
and Chinese, but also many island specialties such as
conch fritters, cactus
soup, docouna, goat water, fried plantains, sweet potato
pudding,
curried chicken, roasted fig salad,
or
tortie, a turtle stew with black beans and banana.
Lobster, wahoo, grouper, mahi-mahi, tuna,
and
other daily catches are staple menu items, too. One
local specialty dating back to
slavery is
fungi,
best described as a stiff cornmeal mush with
okra.
Desserts never fall short, either
- try a
coconut
or
guava tart, the local specialty
soursop ice
cream,
made from the juice of the soursop, a member
of the custard apple family which has white fruit pulp
and a rather astringent, refreshing taste. Other local
specialties for those with a sweet tooth include
delicious
rum cake, bread pudding,
stewed gooseberries on a stick, tie-tie sugar cake,
dundersloe,
or
jawbone. |
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St.
John |
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St.
John is the quietest, most non-commercial, relaxed and
low key of the three islands. Over fifty percent of St.
John is preserved as a national park. The island's
legendary beaches are said to be some of the best in the
world, while under the water you will find extraordinary
diving and snorkeling. Enjoy the slow pace of this
Caribbean jewel. Some of the best-known beaches, many of
which can be seen on our
Gallery page, include:
Salt Pond Bay,
home to
Horizons Cottage and
Captain's Cabin, has a beautiful beach with crystal
clear and enticing water. The beach is not touristy and
usually sparsely populated, probably because it is 'off
the beaten path' and requires a short hike down hill
from the parking lot. There's also the opportunity to go
hiking around nearby Salt Pond itself. Salt Pond Bay
offers excellent snorkeling.
Hawksnest:
This
popular beach has crystal blue waters, soft white sand,
and excellent snorkeling. There are two gazebo areas
for parties, barbecues, or family outings, as well as
changing rooms and full bathroom facilities.
Trunk Bay:
Known to be one of the
top ten most beautiful beaches in the world. There's an
underwater snorkel trail, a snack bar, gift shop,
showers and changing rooms.
Solomon & Honeymoon:
Close to the town of Cruz
Bay,
Solomon
is a small, sandy strip of heaven
on Earth. It's also known as St. John's
unofficial "nude"
beach and has a stunning view of St. Thomas, shady
palms, and is a serene getaway. There is no road access,
you must visit either of these two beaches by hiking or
boat.
Honeymoon Beach
is just past Solomon and is
a little larger and often visited by passing boaters.
Take notice:
Nude bathing has officially been illegal in the USVI
since 1921 and you may be
arrested if observed.
The
same holds true anywhere in the National Park -
Park Managers can cite
nude bathers and fine them for failing to wear
"appropriate attire" on the beach, according to local
regulations.
Cinnamon Bay:
One of St. John's largest and
prettiest beaches, it's also a National Park Campground.
Cinnamon boasts full facilities, a restaurant, store,
occasional live entertainment, kayak and windsurf
rentals. If you visit on a Sunday, you can join the
locals in a friendly game of volleyball.
Caneel Beach:
A
world-famous white sand beach lined with lush tropical
foliage, located at the Caneel Bay Resort. The beach is
accessible through the resort's entrance. While open to
the public, the resort requests that you check in with
the front desk and pick up a day-visitor guide. The
beach offers good snorkeling and a water sports
concession that rents small watercrafts.
Maho
Bay:
This long beautiful, white sand beach is close
to the road so access is easy, but roadside parking is
limited. Boaters often visit Maho on the weekends. The
bay is calm and sheltered, and turtles and rays are often spotted. The
water is relatively shallow, so Maho is good for
children.
Francis Bay:
One of St. John's longest beaches
and an excellent spot for bird watching. The beach is
usually sparsely populated. There is good snorkeling,
and there are also picnic tables on this beach. |
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What's there to do on St. John?
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